Japan

Guide to Japan’s Art Islands: Naoshima, Teshima and Inujima

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How one man’s vision transformed three Japanese islands from dystopian junkyards to world-renowned art destinations

From post-industrial wasteland to artsy utopia, the story of Art Island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea is a journey of redemption.

To be exact, the three islands of Naoshima, Teshima, and Inushima are all on the verge of dilapidation. Naoshima and Inushima were barren by a thriving but destructive copper smelting industry, while Teshima was buried by nearly a million tons of illegally dumped toxic waste.

Until Japanese billionaire Soichiro Fukutake stepped in. Shocked by the devastation — that is, the reckless environmental damage caused by corporations — on the formerly pristine islands, Fukutake decided to bring them back to life, saying in a statement that he was “decided to use art to confront what society is doing.” , while restoring the Shinto values ​​of respecting nature and seeking harmony with nature.

Today, three decades later, and worth an estimated $250 million, the trio fill a picturesque coastline filled with art and flora, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors each year to admire the likes of Claude Monet, Andy Warhol, Works by Yayoi Kusama and David Hockney, to name a few.

It all started in 1988 when Fukutake, then president and representative director of Fukutake Publishing House (now Benesse Corporation), approached renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando to help him realize the transformation of a neglected and economically suffocated island into a paradise A vision for visitors to come and see the work of some of the world’s greatest artists.

A skeptical Ando initially rejected the proposal but was eventually persuaded, and the Pritzker Prize-winning architect went on to design dozens of buildings on Naoshima, the most popular of the three islands.

Ando is known for his minimalist concrete buildings that follow the natural forms of the surrounding landscape, such as the Chichu Museum on Naoshima Island, which was built largely underground to coexist with the natural scenery rather than usurp it. A work of art unto itself, the Chichu Museum hosts compelling exhibits that encourage guests to pause, marvel, and immerse themselves completely, such as Walter de Maria’s time/eternity/no timeA 2.2-meter-high granite sphere sits beneath soaring ceilings, amplified by soft sunlight filtering in through strategically placed skylights.

Disliked by “white cube galleries” (art displayed in empty galleries or museums), Fukutake’s vision was to create meaningful interactions between art, nature and architecture. “This combination is what makes Naoshima Art Island so unique,” ​​said Yumi Wakiyama, founder of Sentio, a Tokyo-based luxury travel concierge service that curates unique art experiences for tourists visiting Japan. “Most of the artwork is site-specific; much of the artwork and architecture was created for the island by artists from around the world, as well as Japanese artists.”

Attendance surged during the Setouchi Triennale, an international contemporary art festival held every three years, with nearly 1.2 million visitors in 2019. Statistics show that most overseas audiences come from Taiwan, Hong Kong and mainland China. With travel restrictions still in place in Japan, the 2022 race was held last April with fewer participants. But with arts-focused travel one of the biggest travel trends for 2023 and beyond, tour operators like Wakiyama have every reason to believe the islands can expect some of their busiest seasons yet.

Tatler tip: Hopping between islands is usually done by ferry, but this leaves you at the mercy of the rather sparse public ferry schedule. Having to rush past some of the world’s most spectacular art installations can get a little boring, so we recommend looking for a tour operator like Sentio, who offer private speedboat services so you can travel through the islands on your own, at your own pace and on your own itinerary.

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