The challenge of visiting Bhutan’s stunning Paro Taktsang Monastery

But the end is far from coming. In the middle is a gorge with a series of stone steps leading down and up to the monastery. The last stop loomed like a nightmare. Located in the middle of the Paro Valley, about 10 kilometers north of Paro town, the sanctuary stands on a peak about 3,000 feet above sea level. Hiking up is the only way to get to it, although horses do carry people up to the halfway mark (which is equally painful). Steep and difficult paths and slippery slopes make the trek challenging. Stories of how easily Prince William and Duchess Kate climbed onto it have been circulated in recent years, but to no avail.

Started hiking early in the morning. Seen from below, the temple is just a hazy silhouette, making the journey seem easy. The trail slopes gently upwards through patches of cypress and pine trees. On that early morning there was an abundance of birds, providing a lovely background score. It seemed like the perfect starting point to reach the holy site, possibly the holiest Buddhist shrine to the Bhutanese. Also known as Paro Taktsang, Taktsang Palphug Monastery is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, the 8th-century Buddhist spiritual master who brought Buddhism to Bhutan. One of the many legends about him says that he rode on the back of a tigress from Tibet to subdue the demons in the demon lair located on Mount Paro, hence the name Tiger Den.

The climb is also made more strenuous as the fantastic tales of Guru Rinpoche are spread by guides and trekkers. The trail narrowed, became steep and winding, rocky and dusty. With every step, the air becomes thinner. It pays off: a winding path takes a sudden turn that opens up stunning panoramas of the verdant valley.

After a few hours, we reached the halfway mark – a beautiful teahouse with a beautiful view of the Tiger’s Nest Temple. I slumped on the bench, drinking tea and sugar cookies gratefully, trying to replenish my resources. Soon, the trek started again, and the going got tougher. The road is narrower and steeper than before. It is also dotted with colorful prayer flags, which flutter wantonly in the strong wind, playing strange movements. Constantly panting, drinking water regularly, and listening to hilarious stories from my guide and fellow hikers brought me to the second stop, a vantage point from which I could see the shrine.

Giving myself a mental dialogue, I advanced to the final stage. The stone steps are a bit winding and go down to a platform in front of the waterfall, but it’s easy to go down the mountain. The journey up the mountain from here is a long, shallow flight of steps. My leg hurts and I’m in a world of pain. But I kept pushing, step by step, until I finally reached the shrine, and collapsed unceremoniously against a low wall, panting.

Once I could breathe again, I wandered around the temple complex. There are many temples and shrines, interconnected by rough steps or wooden ladders. Beautiful murals and paintings adorn the walls of the cave, where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have first entered. The shrine has imposing golden statues adorned with colorful decorations and dotted with butter lamps. An incredible calm reigns over the place, broken only by the sound of bells or whispered chants.

The trek down brought its own problems: it was slippery, and I partly skidded and slid before reaching the bottom. But when I looked up at the temple towering high in the mountains, the distance disappeared and a sense of tranquility seemed to come over me. I hope peace will be with me for a while.

Anita Rao-Kashi is a Bangalore-based writer.This article was published with the title “Miles of Go”