South of Carcassonne, the Cathar countryside is a fascinating region to explore. Named after followers of a heretical sect in the 12th century, this world is home to densely forested valleys, rivers flowing with mountain meltwater, and steep rocky peaks and ridges. Using Carcassonne as a base, visitors can see these important sights in just a few days.
1. Carcassonne Old Town
The old town of Carcassonne was restored in the nineteenth century and now presents one of the most perfect medieval settings. Inside the walls there is an ancient atmosphere in which visitors can immerse themselves. There are only two gates to enter the city that are easy to defend and difficult to attack. When you enter, you will feel that you are walking back into history. Visit in the evening and choose to dine at one of the many good but pricey restaurants.
2. Rennes Castle
Heading south through Limoux, expansive vineyards give way to steep, forested hills in no time. The winding road descends into the deep valley of the Oder River, overlooking rough waters and lush trees. When you reach the small town of Cuiza, turn off the main road and follow the winding road to the hilltop village of Rennes-le-Chateau.
Here you’ll find the half-ruined castle that once belonged to the famous Cathar Blancheford family. In the 1880s, the local priest suddenly became very wealthy. No one ever explained where his wealth came from.
Today, you can visit the small building and marvel at all the strange decorations and statues he installed in the small building, including a near-life-size replica of a devil with a holy water jug on his shoulder. There is also a secret room on the side of the building that can be seen from the outside. Yet the Church will not allow anyone to try to find a way into it.
3. Castle of the Templars
Continuing your tour of the Aude Valley, follow the winding road to Le Bézu, where there are the remains of a castle, marked on the map as the Chateau des Templiers. At the bottom of the rough path leading to the castle is a sign that tells visitors a little about the place and gives a partial plan of the original layout. Today, all that remains of the ancient building are just a few walls sitting on a dizzying ridge.
I got involved in my own weird little mysteries at the castle. On our first visit, I climbed up to the east gate of the castle and found a Templar cross carved into the granite threshold of the gate. I have no way of knowing if this is a modern engraving or if it is centuries old. Of course, this doesn’t appear to have been done recently. When I returned a few years later, I found that someone had been in the place and had chopped off the cross, leaving a bare hollow. Why would anyone want to do this?
4. Pee Lawrence
After passing the small town of Quillan and the deep gorge known as the Défile de Pierre-Lys, you’ll find Puylaurens Castle, just off the main road outside Axat. Perched atop a rocky outcrop, this imposing castle did not surrender to French troops until fourteen years after the main Cathar heresy had been wiped out. When you reach the top, you’ll understand why.
5. Montsegou Castle
The castle of Montsegur was the place where the remaining main body of Cathars made their last stand. On the way, be sure to stop at the Abbey of Prouille, where Saint Dominican founded the Dominican order and began preaching his sermons against purism. From there continue to Mirepoix and La Varanet before turning off a country road leading to Montségur.
After about ten kilometers, you’ll find this small fortress perched on top of a huge rock dome. The main surviving group of about two hundred Saint Buffys (high ranking members of the Puritan faith) retreated here when pursued by French troops of about ten thousand. When you climb up to the simple little castle on top of the rock, you’ll be amazed how many people can last so long in such a small place.
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