Taiwan

Still off-limits: Why I can’t wait to get back to Taiwan


One A few years ago, I found myself eating poop-shaped ice cream in the U-bend of a miniature toilet. The Modern Toilet Restaurant Tour, one of five food paeans to Taiwanese bathrooms, is a surreal highlight of a tour that covers all of its East Asian bases.

I’ve eaten light dumplings at atmospheric night markets; I’ve visited gilded Buddhist temples with the rich aroma of sandalwood; I’ve enjoyed oolong rituals in 16th-century teahouses, where I can almost hear the hustle and bustle of Ming merchants; I’ve hiked through A dazzlingly sublime Taiwan interior. Here, Marble Canyon plunges into a turquoise river, with cracks in the earth’s crust bubbling with the water that supplies Taiwan’s 130 hot springs (great for soothing hikers’ muscles once you’ve mastered spa etiquette).



Taiwan emerges as a rising star in Asian tourism as the pandemic hits, with inbound arrivals doubling to 46 million

On my first trip, I saw Taiwan as a more accessible alternative outside of China, with all the cultural treasures of the Han Chinese (literally, Chinese court jewelry has been stored since the then government retreated from Mao Zedong’s revolutionary forces) in Taipei. 1949), and air and water pollution levels are lower than those of its main immediate neighbors. Taiwan also has an impressive record in safety and crime, making it one of the safest destinations in the world for single female travelers.

For these reasons, combined with the rapid increase in flight connectivity in the late 2000s, Taiwan became a rising star in Asian travel as the pandemic hit, with arrivals doubling to 46 million in the decade to 2018 trips. The cruise line, which also owns the island, launched a new large cruise port in Kaohsiung in the southeastern part of the island in 2019. Princess, Celebrity, Azamara and Royal Caribbean cruise lines have all added Taiwan stops to the popular Tokyo to Hong Kong route.

In these long pandemic years, however, Taiwan has been one of the more cautious countries in easing border rules. At the time of writing, Taiwan remains closed to foreigners, except for emergency or humanitarian reasons, who are subject to a 14-day quarantine of up to 4,000 people per week.

Beaches in Penghu Islands, Taiwan

(Getty Images/iStockphoto)

While I understand the fear, selfishly, I’ve been longing for a return visit to a man nicknamed “”formosa i.(Beautiful Island) The volcanic, teardrop-shaped landmass was stumbled upon by centuries of Western traders while crossing the spice routes of China and Indonesia.

For example, I was eager to explore the Penghu Islands, a group of islands off the west coast of Taiwan popular with big-wave-hunting windsurfers but with a less-traveled coastline. Home to charming Tanah Lot, coral stone villages and humble shacks, it serves unique Penghu cuisine: umami-rich flavours combined with seafood, including popular dishes such as fish head hot pot, fried sea mushrooms, cuttlefish ink, sausage and shrimp roll.

Since my last visit, I’ve heard that young people in Taiwan love cycling and would love to join them on the popular east coast cycling route between Taitun and Hualien, through golden beaches, fishing ports and “art villages” , where visitors can pick up goods from local artisans and sing along.Then it has to be an original tour beitou (Hot Spring) Enjoy a blissful soak. Quieter baths are located in Taiwanese valleys, such as the Lele Valley Hot Springs in Yushan National Park, a peaceful place where you can leave your rags on the rocks and plunge into the seared, mineralized water.

Another thing about Taiwan – thanks to its eastern neighbor Japan – is its pop culture quirks. In the capital city of Taipei, you’ll find bits and pieces of this photogenic, from anime and cosplay cafes to medieval and space-themed “love hotels,” as well as cartoon “love signs” erected in scenic spots where visitors can Post cheerful framed photos on Instagram. Of course, toilet-themed dining is just one aspect of this East Asian tradition.​​​

Cycling in lush places like Sun Moon Lake is a popular pastime

(Getty Images/iStockphoto)

With Taiwan’s border restrictions expected to ease in the fall (the ideal season to visit, the summer monsoons are gone, the sun is shining, and daytime temperatures are around 20 degrees Celsius)—and resort companies are busy selling 2023 Taiwan packages.

These include Responsible Travel’s small ethical group Taiwan tour, which includes a visit to Taipei’s camellia farms and women-led social enterprises, and a hike to the mysterious Sun Moon Lake along the scenic Ci’en Pagoda trail. There is also a 15-day parent-child tour of Bamboo Tour Taiwan, which takes you canoeing along the island’s rugged coastline and deep into the night market stalls of foodie Taipei. From 2024, Cunard’s much-hyped 19-night Queen Elizabeth Far East cruise will cruise the coast of Japan and the Senkaku Islands before arriving in Keelung (Taipei) on day 16.

At the same time, I learned that modern toilets have used the pandemic recess years to make fresh desserts, including chicken curry served in replica squat toilets. Recent reviews of the Shilin branch have been popular (“Worst way ever!”; “I usually eat outside the toilet, but it doesn’t taste as good as this!”). With due apologies to the brave diners in Taipei, it’s not your first choice.



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