Bhutan

No longer a forbidden kingdom


Untouched nature has been a major feature of the Kingdom of Bhutan since it began welcoming tourists in 1974.

The small mountainous country, located in a biodiversity hotspot on the eastern edge of the Himalayas, is the world’s first carbon-negative country, with about 70 percent of its land covered by forests. More than one-third of the forest is protected by ecological protection and conservation programs.

This unspoiled environment has made Bhutan a wish-list destination for trekkers and outdoor explorers. Most recently, it hosted the Yeti Race, an ultramarathon through the Himalayan wilderness to raise awareness about climate change. The five-day event attracts elite trekkers from around the world – some of whom have already conquered Mount Everest.

But what if you’re not the brave type, nor suited to high-altitude adventures? Are there other pastimes in this tiny inland kingdom that are worth the time (and money)?

Of course, there are many alternatives.

While the media insists that climbing Paro’s iconic cliffside Tiger’s Den Temple is a must-do, exploring Bhutan isn’t just about physical endurance.

The stunning lobby pavilion at Six Senses Thimphu.

In addition to the breathtaking scenery, there is a rich cultural heritage, unique culinary specialties and warm hospitality of the Bhutanese. All this to enjoy if you are a wealthy traveler.

After more than two years of the COVID-19 pandemic, Bhutan reopened its borders to international tourists last month.

At the same time, it unveiled a new national strategy called “Believe”. The strategy reflects Bhutan’s distinctive identity and is based on enhanced guest experience and infrastructure upgrades, while enhancing the country’s sustainable development efforts.

As far as tourism is concerned, one of the key changes is the removal of the Minimum Daily Package Price (MDPR).

For decades, foreign tourists to Bhutan had to book through a licensed travel agent, who would arrange a pre-booked itinerary for the entire trip. The package requires a minimum spend of US$250 (9,450 THB) per person per day for accommodation, meals and mandatory guided tours to limit the number of international visitors and control where they go.

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A one-bedroom suite at Six Senses Thimphu.

The renaming policy gives holidaymakers more freedom as they no longer need to travel in a package. This gives tourists the flexibility to connect directly with the service provider, whether it is a hotel, restaurant, spa resort or travel guide.

However, a new tariff of $200 is now required, known as the Sustainable Development Fee (SDF). This amount is paid directly to the government and does not include visa fees, accommodation, transport, meals, tours and other travel expenses that need to be paid separately. Such regulations not only strengthen Bhutan’s “high-value, low-flow” tourism principle, but also ensure the exclusivity of high-end tourists.

The new fees follow the government’s approach to luxury tourism.

Gone are the days when Bhutan’s roads and trails were riddled with treacherous ruts, public bathrooms were filthy, hotels were mediocre, and food was mediocre.

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Luxury camping accommodation at Tiger’s Nest Camp.

The standards for tourism logistics and reception service providers have been upgraded and refined. Employees across the travel industry, from chefs to drivers, are required to participate in a skills-upgrading program that focuses on service quality.

Bhutanese Foreign Minister Dr Tandi Dorji said: “We know that our newly formed Self-Defense Forces have created certain expectations for Bhutanese tourists.”

“Therefore, we are committed to enhancing the guest experience through service quality, cleanliness and infrastructure convenience.

“By limiting the number of cars on the road and the number of people visiting holy places, we ensure an authentic experience for our guests.”

In terms of accommodation, visitors to Bhutan today are spoiled for choice with an impressive array of high-end global hotel brands, including Six Senses, Aman, The Como and Le Méridien.

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Enjoy sunset cocktails at Nimnub Point in Thimphu.

Six Senses Bhutan, where I stayed, consists of five resorts tightly distributed in the bio-rich valleys of Thimphu, Punakha, Paro, Gangti and Bumthang. Accommodation facilities are carefully designed to immerse guests in the local nature and culture.

Thimphu Hotel is the hotel with the largest number of suites and villas in the Six Senses hotel series in Bhutan. It is located on a cloud-shrouded hill, surrounded by apple orchards and pine forests, overlooking the capital of the Kingdom of Bhutan, so there is a “Palace in the Sky” The 25-room resort offers stunning views of the Vajra Buddha statue from every room. The resort also boasts amazing wellness facilities including a spa, hot stone baths, a state-of-the-art fitness center, Yoga room and huge indoor heated pool.

Six Senses Paro is just 25 minutes from Bhutan’s main national airport and 45 minutes from the country’s most revered Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Surrounded by forested peaks and valleys filled with colorful prayer flags, the lodge is within walking distance of several ancient stone ruins, monasteries and forts.

Six Senses Punakha, dubbed the “Flying Farmhouse”, was inspired by its majestic rice field setting. This spectacular guest house is an impressive blend of rustic country charm and first-class hospitality.

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A delicious vegetarian dish showcasing fresh seasonal mushrooms.

Six Senses Gangtey is strategically located in central Bhutan, above the Black-necked Crane Conservation Centre. The 8-suite resort offers 180-degree expansive views of the U-shaped Phobjikha Valley, where cranes of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau roost in winter, making the resort a very private and luxurious bird-watching retreat.

Six Senses Bumthang is nestled among pine forests in one of the most peaceful areas of Bhutan. Dubbed “the forest within the forest,” this eco-conscious resort features a tree in the courtyard and is an ideal spiritual hideaway.

Bhutan also has several glamping sites for travelers on a budget looking for a glamorous camping experience. These include Tiger’s Nest Camp and Tenzinling Luxury Villa Tents in Paro.

When it comes to Bhutanese cuisine, past visitors have found the options limited and difficult to savor. until a few years ago.

Today, I, a veteran food writer, discovered that this small Buddhist country offers some of the simplest yet most delicious cuisines.

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The longest suspension bridge in Bhutan is in Punakha.

Although the dishes are often meat-free as most Bhutanese are vegetarians, they always showcase the natural flavors of fresh seasonal vegetables, chilli and cheeses. Yes, Bhutanese love cheese and dairy!

Two of the most common dishes in Bhutan are ema datsi and momo. The first, literally “pepper and cheese,” features a delicious mixture of long peppers, garlic, and salt cooked in oil, then gradually added to soft milk cheese to create a creamy sauce. This dish can be found everywhere from five-star hotel restaurants to street restaurants.

The latter is a popular local street food, featuring steamed or pan-fried dumplings filled with cheese or vegetables. Thick-skinned dumplings are eaten with chilli sauce, and are available in soup or broth.

Western style cuisine is now more common in Bhutan. There are modern cafés in almost every town, offering excellent pizza, pasta and burgers, as well as a wide range of baked goods and freshly brewed coffee.

Today, most young Bhutanese chefs are trained by European instructors, and the quality of food served in five-star hotels across the country deserves world-class acclaim.

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A modern cafe in the heart of Paro.

Bhutan is also included among the countries covered by the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants award.

Foraging is another desirable activity in the Himalayan country. Six Senses offers guided mushroom-picking adventures from July to September, followed by cooking classes.

Other activities include archery lessons, horseback riding, handcrafted art at local markets, visits to wildlife sanctuaries and museums, and seasonal festivals.

But if you’re looking for a getaway to do nothing, Bhutan is also an absolute haven for romance.

To make your holiday in Bhutan go smoothly, Bhutanese speak very good English.

English is usually taught in schools and is considered the second language of the country and is used in administration, education, media and business.

Despite Bhutan’s openness to modernization and civilization, it remains committed to its high-value essence, merit and religious nationalism that have defined the country for generations.

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Punakha Dzong Fort and Monastery by the river.

The National Happiness Index, a measure of the collective happiness and well-being of the people, still guides the government of Bhutan. Not only is this country the happiest, it is also one of the most non-violent places on earth, enforcing a ban on the slaughter of animals.

Bhutan is bordered by Tibet to the north and India to the south, east and west. Accessible by flights from Nepal, India, Bangladesh, Singapore and Thailand.

The national airline of the Kingdom of Bhutan, Druk Air, and Bhutan Airlines offer direct flights between Bangkok and Bhutan several times a week.

For more information on visiting Bhutan and travel regulations, visit bhutan.travel or Tourism.gov.bt



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