Singapore

From artisanal grocery stores to third-wave coffee shops, a new generation of businesses is thriving in Singapore’s Joo Chiat district


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Singaporeans mostly consider the gritty suburb of Joo Chiat to be the place to find delicious hawker dishes such as 328 Katong Laksa’s coconut-hued laksa and Eng Seng’s pepper crab. But the area, just 15 minutes from the center of Marina Bay, is also one of the best-preserved Peranakan strongholds in Singapore. The group, descended from Chinese immigrants who began to settle in Singapore and other parts of Southeast Asia in the 15th century, are evident in their colorful shophouses, one of which is home to the Intan, a heritage museum frequented by locals with their Peranakans connect to the root. Afterwards, they stroll along the main road, Joo Chiat Road, where vendors sell sticky rice snacks at kueh counters. Over the past few years, a new wave of entrepreneurs has moved in: Dodging rising rents in Tiong Bahru, the hipster hub of the west, they have opened artisanal grocery stores, third-wave coffee shops and home furnishing in Joo Chiat’s brightly lit mansions. Supplies boutique, turning it into one of the city’s most exciting areas.

Peranakan pastel houses along Joo Chiat Road

Chris Schalkes

Crane, co-working and retail space

Chris Schalkes

return breakfast joint

Singapore’s Hokkien coffee shop kopitiams are an endangered breed, so locals mourned when beloved community hangout Chin Mee Chin Confectionery closed in 2018. Luckily, the new owners reopened in 2021, preserving the old-time feel, with marble-topped tables and candy-colored striped awnings. Even the menu remains the same: order the kaya toast (buttery charcoal-grilled bread with coconut sauce) and dip it in a soft-boiled egg sprinkled with soy sauce and white pepper. The kopi is a dark blend of Robusta and Arabica poured over a thick layer of condensed milk for a hint of sweetness.

Tropical Headgear Emporium

Since Canadian expatriate Bill Cain opened Hat of Cain in 2012, his Panama hat salon, furnished with Persian rugs and framed memorabilia, has become the go-to for local dandies and out-of-towners alike looking for top-quality Ecuadorian sombrero hats, always available in this part of the world. Is very popular, with a custom headband and feathers. Cain also sells a range of body-hugging linen shirts, bold swimwear in prints by Spanish illustrator Anjara García, and iridescent rubber-soled espadrilles made in Spain.

The bright exterior wall of the Black Soil Art Museum on Joo Chiat Road

Chris Schalkes

Enjoy a classic English breakfast at lively Common Man Coffee Roasters

Chris Schalkes

insider lunch spot

Joo Chiat’s revival gained momentum in 2021, when the popular Common Man Coffee Roasters opened a third location in an airy warehouse along the area’s main street. Remote workers sip single-origin slow-brewed beers while emailing, pausing to munch on hearty bowls of quinoa and barley.After dark, the space becomes a drunk farmer, It uses a 160-year-old sourdough starter to bake portobello pizza and top it with spicy honey.

party day and night

One of the prettiest Peranakan-tiled buildings on Joo Chiat Road, Crane is more than just a co-working space: creatives and performers come here for comedy nights, weaving workshops and meditation rituals, while the concept store downstairs , shelves lined with Japanese ceramics and tasseled pillows. Look out for watercolors by Singaporean illustrator Goh Ying Ying and local label Nine Wicker Ave for scented candles adorned with onyx, basil and tiger grass.

Crane’s shelves are filled with bric-a-brac

Chris Schalkes

Cain’s Hats, a haberdashery owned by Bill Kane

Chris Schalkes

natural wine sanctuary

A neon-lit staircase behind an unassuming door leads to a wine lover’s wonderland, Wine Mouth, The first store in Singapore that specializes in natural wine bottles. Wide-eyed Roman statues gaze over rows of bubbly Tuscan pét-nats, wild-fermented Danish fruit ciders, and small-batch orange wines shipped in from Greece and Australia. The chatty staff will be happy to help you choose. Check the website for a schedule of tasting workshops, yoga classes, and the art of drunkenness.

This article was published in the March 2023 issue Condé Nast Traveler. subscribe magazine here.



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