Indonesia

Bali wants to change mass tourism, here is how the island is rebuilding after strict Covid closures


On a prime Sunday morning at the start of Bali’s dry season, a small group of tourists meet at Littletalks Ubud, a cozy library café overlooking an 8th-century Hindu temple surrounded by coconut palms, banyan trees and eggs flower.

There they met senior guide I Nyoman Windia and trainee guide Ni Wayan Khana Putri Pertiwi, employees of a new historical walking tour company, Ubud Story Walks.

Wendia joked that one of the reasons he joined the company was to get back to work health after working a minimum of two years during the pandemic. A passing motorcyclist shouted at him as he strolled along the pavement in an apron and flip-flops. “A friend,” Vindia said. “He was very happy to see me again with the guests.”

Indonesia resumed visas on arrival in early March after six months of gradually easing international entry rules, including lifting of quarantines. The following month, 66,685 foreigners walked through the gates of Ngurah Rai International Airport. Only nine did so last April.

The fun of Bali has made it a popular tourist destination, but it also has a downside (Photo: Getty Images)

The Indonesian island welcomed 6.3 million international tourists in 2019, before global travel stopped. According to the country’s Central Bureau of Statistics, 55% of Bali’s economy that year came from tourism and hospitality, although some believe that figure could be as high as 80% due to the size of the informal sector. As one of the world’s top resorts for more than half a century, tourism has deep economic roots.

At least 75,000 workers have been laid off or forced to take unpaid leave due to Covid-19, according to the Bali Human Resources Agency. Those still working in the tourism industry are almost certainly doing so on a pay cut.

The island has been here before: after the terrorist attacks in 2002 and 2005, the SARS outbreak in 2013, and the eruption of Mount Agung in 2017. However, the economic impact of Covid-19 is the worst ever in Bali, with some Balinese commenting that it is worse than the previous recessions combined.

It is clear that the end of the pandemic is nowhere in sight, with many unemployed Balinese returning to their ancestral farms and fishing, while others become drivers, set up online food businesses or open cafes.

Ni Wayan Khana Putri Pertiwi, known as Khana, said her aunt, a French-speaking tour guide, now sells rujak (sliced ​​fruit and raw vegetables served with a sweet and spicy sauce).

The Bali Banjar System — the social fabric that connects Balinese people with their local communities — and dozens of fundraisers from Indonesians and expatriates ensure that the basic needs of the majority continue to be met.

“Our resilient and strong community has saved us from the worst impacts,” said Eve Tedja, associate editor of Gourmet Lifestyle Magazine.

“Yes, the economic crisis is devastating, but we have social support to cushion the recession.” Online motorcycle taxi driver Ida Bagus Wira Nugraha agrees: “No matter how much we have, Balinese are still willing to pay for the unfortunate people to help.”

When Bali reopened to domestic travelers in July 2020, the influx of thousands from major cities such as Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, Medan and Makassar was a huge but sometimes overlooked take on Indonesia Important reminder of the strength of the domestic market.

The island welcomed 10.7 million domestic tourists in 2019, outstripping the 6.3 million inbound tourists by a wide margin. Nonetheless, Bali’s top hotel body reports that domestic demand is not enough to revive the industry.

As has been done in many other resorts, the pandemic has amplified widespread discussions about the need for economic diversification, with local governments pledging to increase investment in agriculture and manufacturing.

Seminyak Beach is a popular tourist attraction (Photo: Getty)

“The last decade has taught us that,” said Bulan Bharata, Marketing and Communications Manager for Hyatt Regency Bali and Andaz Bali.

“Explosions, volcanic eruptions and pandemics have brought to the fore the fact that we can no longer rely on one industry for revenue. However, to diversify, we need to work together from local to central government, communities, educators and investors. Synergy. It may take a while to happen, but I believe it is possible.”

As the pandemic spreads and the environmental impact of fewer tourists — clearer roads, cleaner air, quieter beaches — is increasingly taken seriously, many Balinese, especially the younger generation, express an end to mass tourism and more An authentic approach to environmental protection and sustainability.

However, Luh Micke Anggraini, Senior Lecturer in Sustainable Tourism Communication at Dwipa University Bali, said that despite peaking due to Covid-19, this dialogue has continued in Bali for the past 40 years, with the government “taking little practical action” .

Eve Taiga agreed. “After borders opened and zero quarantines were announced, everything went back to normal. But I don’t think we can do business as usual — not after what we’ve witnessed over the past two years. Those who should be leading don’t have leadership, so the solution It has to come from ourselves.”

A new community education center in the village of Les is due to open in July, about three hours’ drive from the touristy southern part of the island. Amisewaka will provide vocational and life skills training to hundreds of students from low-income families in northeastern Bali. In addition to cooking and hospitality, permaculture and sustainable farming are also on the curriculum.

With solar panels, a roof garden and a complete recycling system, Amisewaka can be a blueprint for Bali Tourism School to take sustainability seriously.

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Meanwhile, under the banner of “KemBALI Becik”, various local businesses and government-backed NGOs have joined forces to try to make the island’s tourism recovery greener.

In Indonesian, kembali means “return” and becik means “good” in Balinese.

Through its website and social media campaigns, the collective highlights businesses that embrace clean energy and provide environmentally friendly consumer goods. It also offers advice for travelers looking to reduce their environmental impact.

Ultimately, however, the most effective way to address mass tourism and its environmental impact is to change tourist visa policies.

“By now, I hope the government and stakeholders realize that the length of time tourists stay is more important than the number,” Tedja said.

“Let’s change the parameters. Unlike Bali, which hosts 6 million international tourists a year, why don’t we set the average length of stay at one month? Bali can be their base, home to explore the rest of Indonesia. That’s what we should be after. The goal.”

travel essentials

More information Travelers who are fully vaccinated against Covid do not need a PCR test on arrival and undergo a five-day quarantine.

All arrivals require a tourist visa, which can be obtained at the airport for $35.Indonesia. Travel



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