Of all the places I’ve been to in India and Europe for 66 years, Ladakh is unique mainly because of its unique and beautiful landscape of rugged brownstone mountains and the occasional snow-capped peaks and deserts. Combining its great food and the great location of the first resort in Leh, I stayed there with my wife and daughter for four nights in the second week of July, Ladakh is undeniably the best vacation I have ever had one.
Day 1: Various voices
On the afternoon of July 7, it was an unforgettable feast of sound at this cozy and beautifully appointed resort by the Indus River on the outskirts of Leh, surrounded by silent mountains and fading clouds, completely devoid of greenery. Widely known as the Sindh River in India, the river is a trans-Himalayan and trans-boundary river and one of the longest rivers in the world. Its powerful gushing, sweet chirps, bird and cuckoo-like calls, and cool breezes that constantly ebb and flow on warm sunny days are among the myriad gifts nature has to offer here. The sounds were interrupted by a solitary gong from a monastery not far away, and the sound of evening prayers from a nearby mosque. fail Motorcycles and trucks periodically honk their horns on an unseen highway—and the occasional roar of fighter jets flying across calm skies and drones from helicopters and IAF transport planes—some “gift” civilization scrambling to offer.
All in all, it was an unforgettable experience.
Day 5: Nubra Valley through Khardung La
After a four-day stay in Leh that included a visit to a 10th century monastery in the village of Alchi, 70 kilometers downhill, and a visit to the huge Thiksay Monastery on the outskirts of Leh, we set off for Hunder, 130 kilometers north. Located in the picturesque Nubra Valley (Nubra means Valley of Flowers in Ladaki), Hunder can be reached via the famous Khardung La Pass, which is packed with tourists taking selfies and selfies under yellow concrete slabs, announcing that we are in the “world” Highest Motor Pass”, 18,380 feet above sea level. The highest now is Umrin La, also located in Ladakh, at 19,000 feet above sea level. Excited tourists can be seen frolicking in the snow and taking pictures along the mountainside of Khardung La.
After a spectacular 5-hour drive, we arrived at Hunder, sometimes slowed by a convoy of military trucks transporting people and supplies to the Siachen border (Sia means wild rose in Ladaki, and Chen is place). We were lucky to see a few red-orange wild roses along the roadside on our way through Nubra.
After admiring the breathtaking views of the mountains, especially the majestic snow-capped peaks of the Karakoram Mountains that separate India, Pakistan and China, all the way to Afghanistan and Tajikistan, there is a lot of beauty and excitement ahead. This includes sightings of Himalayan marmots pointed out by our driver Iqbalbhai, who was a wildlife spotter before starting full-time driving. This sand-colored beaver-like creature is one of the few mammals to live at such heights. It goes underground for six months of the year and seeks herbivore on the ground, and spends most of the rest of the year lounging.
By the way, the village of Khardung is at least two hours’ drive from the mountain pass (La), which is about 13,000 feet above sea level. At this time of year, it is mostly green, with fields of wheat and small pieces of mustard greens. One can see the few ruins of the small settlements of South Prue and North Prue used by merchants on the Silk Road centuries ago.
Silk Road
The evocative Silk Road or Trans-Eurasian caravan trade involved not only silk, but thread, spices, pack animals, and exotic items such as ivory and rhino horn, winding through these intrepid travelers and narrow and dangerous paths. up, through the mountains that we once walked. These routes traveled from China through Central Asia, northern India, the Parthian and Roman Empires, possibly as early as 200 BC. It knits together diverse and complex societies, economies and nations, especially in Central and South Asia, and allows for a fusion of cultures and ideas, especially those related to Hinduism, Buddhism and Islam, but which were later adopted by Europe “Discover” sea routes and colonial profits.
Day 6: Balti Village of Turtuk and Thang
The morning after a night’s rest in Hunder, we head to Turtuk, 77 kilometers north. Turtuk is home to some 3,000 Bharti Muslims who became Indians after the 1971 Bangladesh War, when New Delhi annexed what was then Pakistani territory. Opened to tourists in 2010, Turtuk is today a bustling tourist destination because of its proximity to Thang, the last Indian village in this region on the border with Pakistan. The two and a half hour drive to Turtuk is amazing. The road that meanders through the desert, close to the mountains and down the mighty grey Shyok river, was one of our most wonderful experiences. It’s also a joy to drive on the wonderful roads built and maintained by the Army Border Road Organization (BRO).
Short stop for brunch in Turtuk, we are on our way to Thang. Crowds of tourists can be seen posing for pictures in front of a giant board announcing Thang’s “unique” location.A group of middle-aged men and women shouting “Bharat Matakij” As they posed for pictures, several silent white-bearded Balti men and women sat under tents, taking pictures of tourists in traditional Balti attire. An enthusiastic young man gleefully posed for pictures under a poster highlighting the tragedy of the war, saying the split between the twin villages of Pharnu (now in Pakistan) and Thang (in India) led to the separation of husband and wife, brothers With brother, sister from sister and so on.
The settlement of the Pharnu and Pak army bunkers can be seen from this side of the accordion line that divides the border. Other tourists feasted at the popular Thang restaurant, which describes itself as a “vegan Jain restaurant” that opened a year ago, shortly after Thang was allowed to approach tourists. When I asked the driver Iqbalbhai who this Jain was, he smiled wryly and said, “The owner is a local Balti Muslim from Thang”.
As it happens, Baltis is mostly vegetarian, but eats meat occasionally, usually during harsh winters when the place is covered in snow. Their signature dishes include kesir (buckwheat pancakes) and moskot (crushed walnuts, onions and green chillies in a walnut puree) and thenthuk – a Balti version of Tibetan thukpa, a clear soup with chopped vegetables and noodles. We ate the former and kesir tsamik (raita with chopped lavender-like plants) at a vegetarian Balti restaurant in Turtuk before heading off to Thang.
Balti takes root in Ladakh
Gilgit-Baltistan is a multilingual and ethnically diverse region surrounded by the Hindu Kush and Karakoram Mountains. Ladakh has historical ties with the Balti: one of the kings had a Balti wife and a Dogra king who conquered parts of Ladakh and Baltistan, apparently settled some in the area Balti people to make the most of their gardening skills. In the traumatic partition of 1947, Gilgit-Baltistan was part of the former state of Jammu and Kashmir, which became part of the borders of Pakistan with India, Afghanistan and China. Many Baltis were also followers of the 15th century Sufi mystic Nur Baksh.
Meet the Balti youth
While in Turtuk, famous for its apricots, I spoke with a young Balti college student. When asked about social life in his village, he said, “Despite our completely different language, culture, diet and dress, the relationship between Buddhists and Muslims in Ladakh is very good.”
When asked about life in Turtuk after the UPA government opened the place to tourists in 2010, he said: “It has always been prosperous but at the cost of nature due to the accompanying pollution”. Tourists have been visiting Turtuk since 2010, so saw the metal fence marking the LOC with Pakistan in the dry riverbed, but they have been on the way since the Modi government took control of Ladakh in 2019 Go to Border Tang Village.
Talking about the experience of the older generation being separated from their loved ones after the 1971 war, the youth said: “When the war broke out in December 1971, my father’s cousin was ninety when he went to school from Turtuk to Karachi. He couldn’t come back.”
Cousins could not meet in Delhi until decades later. “As for me, I got in touch with a cousin I recently met by chance via social media,” The young man said that he hoped to see him one day.
Days 7 and 8: Delicious food
After two days in Hunder, we returned to Leh where we dined at a great Ladakhi restaurant not far from the town’s main market. The first day we went there, Buddhists observed Guru Purnima, which only served vegetarian food. So, we had Yarkhandi paneer pulao and Cho-tagi, a vegetable soup and apricot cheesecake. All three dishes were delicious, we booked a lunch table the next day to try their meat dishes, so glad we did.
Gyuma lamb sausage with two hot sauces and Campbell (buckwheat barbecue), delicious. Yarkhandi lamb pulao with lamb momos and yakhni was excellent. Thick stews of lamb, saba and timmo (buns) are delightful.For dessert we have Phosphating – Apricots are soaked and boiled in their own juice. All this was preceded by apricot juice, sweet and lime water and coke, and the bill was 2,436 rupees.
When Lini thanked the Ladakh lady boss for the best meal in Ladakh and the best meal of her life, the graceful lady beamed with admiration, with her hands folded on her chest “my God”.
We were very full and decided to visit this restaurant again on our next trip to Ladakh.
About the author
Debash Chatterjee – The writer is a retired journalist based in Delhi. He last served as the National Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Hindustan Times, with a passion for travel and food.
